THE THEATRE

During carnival a company is playing in the theatre. On Christmas Day

the padrone came in with the key of his box, and would we care to see

the drama? The theatre was small, a mere nothing, in fact; a mere affair

of peasants, you understand; and the Signor Di Paoli spread his hands

and put his head on one side, parrot-wise; but we might find a little

diversion--_un peu de divertiment_. With this he handed me the key.

I made suitable acknowledgements, and was really impressed. To be handed

the key of a box at the theatre, so simply and pleasantly, in the large

sitting-room looking over the grey lake of Christmas Day; it seemed to

me a very graceful event. The key had a chain and a little shield of

bronze, on which was beaten out a large figure 8.

So the next day we went to see _I Spettri_, expecting some good, crude

melodrama. The theatre is an old church. Since that triumph of the deaf

and dumb, the cinematograph, has come to give us the nervous excitement

of speed--grimace agitation, and speed, as of flying atoms, chaos--many

an old church in Italy has taken a new lease of life.

This cast-off church made a good theatre. I realized how cleverly it had

been constructed for the dramatic presentation of religious ceremonies.

The east end is round, the walls are windowless, sound is well

distributed. Now everything is theatrical, except the stone floor and

two pillars at the back of the auditorium, and the slightly

ecclesiastical seats below.

There are two tiers of little boxes in the theatre, some forty in all,

with fringe and red velvet, and lined with dark red paper, quite like

real boxes in a real theatre. And the padrone's is one of the best. It

just holds three people.

We paid our threepence entrance fee in the stone hall and went upstairs.

I opened the door of Number 8, and we were shut in our little cabin,

looking down on the world. Then I found the barber, Luigi, bowing

profusely in a box opposite. It was necessary to make bows all round:

ah, the chemist, on the upper tier, near the barber; how-do-you-do to

the padrona of the hotel, who is our good friend, and who sits, wearing

a little beaver shoulder-cape, a few boxes off; very cold salutation to

the stout village magistrate with the long brown beard, who leans

forward in the box facing the stage, while a grouping of faces look out

from behind him; a warm smile to the family of the Signora Gemma, across

next to the stage. Then we are settled.

I cannot tell why I hate the village magistrate. He looks like a family

portrait by a Flemish artist, he himself weighing down the front of the

picture with his portliness and his long brown beard, whilst the faces

of his family are arranged in two groups for the background. I think he

is angry at our intrusion. He is very republican and self-important. But

we eclipse him easily, with the aid of a large black velvet hat, and

black furs, and our Sunday clothes.

Downstairs the villagers are crowding, drifting like a heavy current.

The women are seated, by church instinct, all together on the left, with

perhaps an odd man at the end of a row, beside his wife. On the right,

sprawling in the benches, are several groups of bersaglieri, in grey

uniforms and slanting cock's-feather hats; then peasants, fishermen, and

an odd couple or so of brazen girls taking their places on the

men's side.

At the back, lounging against the pillars or standing very dark and

sombre, are the more reckless spirits of the village. Their black felt

hats are pulled down, their cloaks are thrown over their mouths, they

stand very dark and isolated in their moments of stillness, they shout

and wave to each other when anything occurs.

The men are clean, their clothes are all clean washed. The rags of the

poorest porter are always well washed. But it is Sunday tomorrow, and

they are shaved only on a Sunday. So that they have a week's black

growth on their chins. But they have dark, soft eyes, unconscious and

vulnerable. They move and balance with loose, heedless motion upon their

clattering zoccoli, they lounge with wonderful ease against the wall at

the back, or against the two pillars, unconscious of the patches on

their clothes or of their bare throats, that are knotted perhaps with a

scarlet rag. Loose and abandoned, they lounge and talk, or they watch

with wistful absorption the play that is going on.

They are strangely isolated in their own atmosphere, and as if revealed.

It is as if their vulnerable being was exposed and they have not the wit

to cover it. There is a pathos of physical sensibility and mental

inadequacy. Their mind is not sufficiently alert to run with their

quick, warm senses.

The men keep together, as if to support each other, the women also are

together; in a hard, strong herd. It is as if the power, the hardness,

the triumph, even in this Italian village, were with the women in their

relentless, vindictive unity.

That which drives men and women together, the indomitable necessity, is

like a bondage upon the people. They submit as under compulsion, under

constraint. They come together mostly in anger and in violence of

destructive passion. There is no comradeship between men and women, none

whatsoever, but rather a condition of battle, reserve, hostility.

On Sundays the uncomfortable, excited, unwilling youth walks for an hour

with his sweetheart, at a little distance from her, on the public

highway in the afternoon. This is a concession to the necessity for

marriage. There is no real courting, no happiness of being together,

only the roused excitement which is based on a fundamental hostility.

There is very little flirting, and what there is is of the subtle, cruel

kind, like a sex duel. On the whole, the men and women avoid each other,

almost shun each other. Husband and wife are brought together in a

child, which they both worship. But in each of them there is only the

great reverence for the infant, and the reverence for fatherhood or

motherhood, as the case may be; there is no spiritual love.

In marriage, husband and wife wage the subtle, satisfying war of sex

upon each other. It gives a profound satisfaction, a profound intimacy.

But it destroys all joy, all unanimity in action.

On Sunday afternoons the uncomfortable youth walks by the side of his

maiden for an hour in the public highway. Then he escapes; as from a

bondage he goes back to his men companions. On Sunday afternoons and

evenings the married woman, accompanied by a friend or by a child--she

dare not go alone, afraid of the strange, terrible sex-war between her

and the drunken man--is seen leading home the wine-drunken, liberated

husband. Sometimes she is beaten when she gets home. It is part of the

process. But there is no synthetic love between men and women, there is

only passion, and passion is fundamental hatred, the act of love is

a fight.

The child, the outcome, is divine. Here the union, the oneness, is

manifest. Though spirit strove with spirit, in mortal conflict, during

the sex-passion, yet the flesh united with flesh in oneness. The phallus

is still divine. But the spirit, the mind of man, this has

become nothing.

So the women triumph. They sit down below in the theatre, their

perfectly dressed hair gleaming, their backs very straight, their heads

carried tensely. They are not very noticeable. They seem held in

reserve. They are just as tense and stiff as the men are slack and

abandoned. Some strange will holds the women taut. They seem like

weapons, dangerous. There is nothing charming nor winning about them; at

the best a full, prolific maternity, at the worst a yellow poisonous

bitterness of the flesh that is like a narcotic. But they are too strong

for the men. The male spirit, which would subdue the immediate flesh to

some conscious or social purpose, is overthrown. The woman in her

maternity is the law-giver, the supreme authority. The authority of the

man, in work, in public affairs, is something trivial in comparison. The

pathetic ignominy of the village male is complete on Sunday afternoon,

on his great day of liberation, when he is accompanied home, drunk but

sinister, by the erect, unswerving, slightly cowed woman. His drunken

terrorizing is only pitiable, she is so obviously the more

constant power.

And this is why the men must go away to America. It is not the money. It

is the profound desire to rehabilitate themselves, to recover some

dignity as men, as producers, as workers, as creators from the spirit,

not only from the flesh. It is a profound desire to get away from women

altogether, the terrible subjugation to sex, the phallic worship.

The company of actors in the little theatre was from a small town away

on the plain, beyond Brescia. The curtain rose, everybody was still,

with that profound, naïve attention which children give. And after a few

minutes I realized that _I Spettri_ was Ibsen's _Ghosts_. The peasants

and fishermen of the Garda, even the rows of ungovernable children, sat

absorbed in watching as the Norwegian drama unfolded itself.

The actors are peasants. The leader is the son of a peasant proprietor.

He is qualified as a chemist, but is unsettled, vagrant, prefers

play-acting. The Signer Pietro di Paoli shrugs his shoulders and

apologizes for their vulgar accent. It is all the same to me. I am

trying to get myself to rights with the play, which I have just lately

seen in Munich, perfectly produced and detestable.

It was such a change from the hard, ethical, slightly mechanized

characters in the German play, which was as perfect an interpretation as

I can imagine, to the rather pathetic notion of the Italian peasants,

that I had to wait to adjust myself.

The mother was a pleasant, comfortable woman harassed by something, she

did not quite know what. The pastor was a ginger-haired caricature

imitated from the northern stage, quite a lay figure. The peasants never

laughed, they watched solemnly and absorbedly like children. The servant

was just a slim, pert, forward hussy, much too flagrant. And then the

son, the actor-manager: he was a dark, ruddy man, broad and thick-set,

evidently of peasant origin, but with some education now; he was the

important figure, the play was his.

And he was strangely disturbing. Dark, ruddy, and powerful, he could not

be the blighted son of 'Ghosts', the hectic, unsound, northern issue of

a diseased father. His flashy Italian passion for his half-sister was

real enough to make one uncomfortable: something he wanted and would

have in spite of his own soul, something which fundamentally he did

not want.

It was this contradiction within the man that made the play so

interesting. A robust, vigorous man of thirty-eight, flaunting and

florid as a rather successful Italian can be, there was yet a secret

sickness which oppressed him. But it was no taint in the blood, it was

rather a kind of debility in the soul. That which he wanted and would

have, the sensual excitement, in his soul he did not want it, no, not at

all. And yet he must act from his physical desires, his physical will.

His true being, his real self, was impotent. In his soul he was

dependent, forlorn. He was childish and dependent on the mother. To hear

him say, '_Grazia, mamma!_' would have tormented the mother-soul in any

woman living. Such a child crying in the night! And for what?

For he was hot-blooded, healthy, almost in his prime, and free as a man

can be in his circumstances. He had his own way, he admitted no

thwarting. He governed his circumstances pretty much, coming to our

village with his little company, playing the plays he chose himself. And

yet, that which he would have he did not vitally want, it was only a

sort of inflamed obstinacy that made him so insistent, in the masculine

way. He was not going to be governed by women, he was not going to be

dictated to in the least by any one. And this because he was beaten by

his own flesh.

His real man's soul, the soul that goes forth and builds up a new world

out of the void, was ineffectual. It could only revert to the senses.

His divinity was the phallic divinity. The other male divinity, which is

the spirit that fulfils in the world the new germ of an idea, this was

denied and obscured in him, unused. And it was this spirit which cried

out helplessly in him through the insistent, inflammable flesh. Even

this play-acting was a form of physical gratification for him, it had in

it neither real mind nor spirit.

It was so different from Ibsen, and so much more moving. Ibsen is

exciting, nervously sensational. But this was really moving, a real

crying in the night. One loved the Italian nation, and wanted to help it

with all one's soul. But when one sees the perfect Ibsen, how one hates

the Norwegian and Swedish nations! They are detestable.

They seem to be fingering with the mind the secret places and sources of

the blood, impertinent, irreverent, nasty. There is a certain

intolerable nastiness about the real Ibsen: the same thing is in

Strindberg and in most of the Norwegian and Swedish writings. It is with

them a sort of phallic worship also, but now the worship is mental and

perverted: the phallus is the real fetish, but it is the source of

uncleanliness and corruption and death, it is the Moloch, worshipped in

obscenity.

Which is unbearable. The phallus is a symbol of creative divinity. But

it represents only part of creative divinity. The Italian has made it

represent the whole. Which is now his misery, for he has to destroy his

symbol in himself.

Which is why the Italian men have the enthusiasm for war, unashamed.

Partly it is the true phallic worship, for the phallic principle is to

absorb and dominate all life. But also it is a desire to expose

themselves to death, to know death, that death may destroy in them this

too strong dominion of the blood, may once more liberate the spirit of

outgoing, of uniting, of making order out of chaos, in the outer world,

as the flesh makes a new order from chaos in begetting a new life, set

them free to know and serve a greater idea.

The peasants below sat and listened intently, like children who hear and

do not understand, yet who are spellbound. The children themselves sit

spellbound on the benches till the play is over. They do not fidget or

lose interest. They watch with wide, absorbed eyes at the mystery, held

in thrall by the sound of emotion.

But the villagers do not really care for Ibsen. They let it go. On the

feast of Epiphany, as a special treat, was given a poetic drama by

D'Annunzio, _La Fiaccola sotto il Moggio_--_The Light under the Bushel_.

It is a foolish romantic play of no real significance. There are several

murders and a good deal of artificial horror. But it is all a very nice

and romantic piece of make-believe, like a charade.

So the audience loved it. After the performance of _Ghosts_ I saw the

barber, and he had the curious grey clayey look of an Italian who is

cold and depressed. The sterile cold inertia, which the so-called

passionate nations know so well, had settled on him, and he went

obliterating himself in the street, as if he were cold, dead.

But after the D'Annunzio play he was like a man who has drunk sweet wine

and is warm.

'_Ah, bellissimo, bellissimo_!' he said, in tones of intoxicated

reverence, when he saw me.

'Better than _I Spettri_?' I said.

He half-raised his hands, as if to imply the fatuity of the question.

'Ah, but--' he said, 'it was D'Annunzio. The other....'

'That was Ibsen--a great Norwegian,' I said, 'famous all over the

world.'

'But you know--D'Annunzio is a poet--oh, beautiful, beautiful!' There

was no going beyond this '_bello--bellissimo_'.

It was the language which did it. It was the Italian passion for

rhetoric, for the speech which appeals to the senses and makes no demand

on the mind. When an Englishman listens to a speech he wants at least to

imagine that he understands thoroughly and impersonally what is meant.

But an Italian only cares about the emotion. It is the movement, the

physical effect of the language upon the blood which gives him supreme

satisfaction. His mind is scarcely engaged at all. He is like a child,

hearing and feeling without understanding. It is the sensuous

gratification he asks for. Which is why D'Annunzio is a god in Italy. He

can control the current of the blood with his words, and although much

of what he says is bosh, yet his hearer is satisfied, fulfilled.

Carnival ends on the 5th of February, so each Thursday there is a Serata

d' Onore of one of the actors. The first, and the only one for which

prices were raised--to a fourpence entrance fee instead of

threepence--was for the leading lady. The play was _The Wife of the

Doctor_, a modern piece, sufficiently uninteresting; the farce that

followed made me laugh.

Since it was her Evening of Honour, Adelaida was the person to see. She

is very popular, though she is no longer young. In fact, she is the

mother of the young pert person of _Ghosts_.

Nevertheless, Adelaida, stout and blonde and soft and pathetic, is the

real heroine of the theatre, the prima. She is very good at sobbing; and

afterwards the men exclaim involuntarily, out of their strong emotion,

'_bella, bella_!' The women say nothing. They sit stiffly and

dangerously as ever. But, no doubt, they quite agree this is the true

picture of ill-used, tear-stained woman, the bearer of many wrongs.

Therefore they take unto themselves the homage of the men's '_bella,

bella_!' that follows the sobs: it is due recognition of their hard

wrongs: 'the woman pays.' Nevertheless, they despise in their souls the

plump, soft Adelaida.

Dear Adelaida, she is irreproachable. In every age, in every clime, she

is dear, at any rate to the masculine soul, this soft, tear-blenched,

blonde, ill-used thing. She must be ill-used and unfortunate. Dear

Gretchen, dear Desdemona, dear Iphigenia, dear Dame aux Camélias, dear

Lucy of Lammermoor, dear Mary Magdalene, dear, pathetic, unfortunate

soul, in all ages and lands, how we love you. In the theatre she

blossoms forth, she is the lily of the stage. Young and inexperienced as

I am, I have broken my heart over her several times. I could write a

sonnet-sequence to her, yes, the fair, pale, tear-stained thing,

white-robed, with her hair down her back; I could call her by a hundred

names, in a hundred languages, Melisande, Elizabeth, Juliet, Butterfly,

Phèdre, Minnehaha, etc. Each new time I hear her voice, with its faint

clang of tears, my heart grows big and hot, and my bones melt. I detest

her, but it is no good. My heart begins to swell like a bud under the

plangent rain.

The last time I saw her was here, on the Garda, at Salò. She was the

chalked, thin-armed daughter of Rigoletto. I detested her, her voice had

a chalky squeak in it. And yet, by the end, my heart was overripe in my

breast, ready to burst with loving affection. I was ready to walk on to

the stage, to wipe out the odious, miscreant lover, and to offer her all

myself, saying, 'I can see it is real _love_ you want, and you shall

have it: _I_ will give it to you.'

Of course I know the secret of the Gretchen magic; it is all in the

'Save me, Mr Hercules!' phrase. Her shyness, her timidity, her

trustfulness, her tears foster my own strength and grandeur. I am the

positive half of the universe. But so I am, if it comes to that, just as

positive as the other half.

Adelaida is plump, and her voice has just that moist, plangent strength

which gives one a real voluptuous thrill. The moment she comes on the

stage and looks round--a bit scared--she is _she_, Electra, Isolde,

Sieglinde, Marguèrite. She wears a dress of black voile, like the lady

who weeps at the trial in the police-court. This is her modern uniform.

Her antique garment is of trailing white, with a blonde pigtail and a

flower. Realistically, it is black voile and a handkerchief.

Adelaida always has a handkerchief. And still I cannot resist it. I say,

'There's the hanky!' Nevertheless, in two minutes it has worked its way

with me. She squeezes it in her poor, plump hand as the tears begin to

rise; Fate, or man, is inexorable, so cruel. There is a sob, a cry; she

presses the fist and the hanky to her eyes, one eye, then the other. She

weeps real tears, tears shaken from the depths of her soft, vulnerable,

victimized female self. I cannot stand it. There I sit in the padrone's

little red box and stifle my emotion, whilst I repeat in my heart: 'What

a shame, child, what a shame!' She is twice my age, but what is age in

such circumstances? 'Your poor little hanky, it's sopping. There, then,

don't cry. It'll be all right. _I'll_ see you're all right. _All_ men

are not beasts, you know.' So I cover her protectively in my arms, and

soon I shall be kissing her, for comfort, in the heat and prowess of my

compassion, kissing her soft, plump cheek and neck closely, bringing my

comfort nearer and nearer.

It is a pleasant and exciting role for me to play. Robert Burns did the

part to perfection:

O wert thou in the cauld blast

On yonder lea, on yonder lea.

How many times does one recite that to all the Ophelias and Gretchens in

the world:

Thy bield should be my bosom.

How one admires one's bosom in that capacity! Looking down at one's

shirt-front, one is filled with strength and pride.

Why are the women so bad at playing this part in real life, this

Ophelia-Gretchen role? Why are they so unwilling to go mad and die for

our sakes? They do it regularly on the stage.

But perhaps, after all, we write the plays. What a villain I am, what a

black-browed, passionate, ruthless, masculine villain I am to the

leading lady on the stage; and, on the other hand, dear heart, what a

hero, what a fount of chivalrous generosity and faith! I am _anything_

but a dull and law-abiding citizen. I am a Galahad, full of purity and

spirituality, I am the Lancelot of valour and lust; I fold my hands, or

I cock my hat in one side, as the case may be: I am _myself_. Only, I am

not a respectable citizen, not that, in this hour of my glory and

my escape.

Dear Heaven, how Adelaida wept, her voice plashing like violin music, at

my ruthless, masculine cruelty. Dear heart, how she sighed to rest on my

sheltering bosom! And how I enjoyed my dual nature! How I

admired myself!

Adelaida chose _La Moglie del Dottore_ for her Evening of Honour. During

the following week came a little storm of coloured bills: 'Great Evening

of Honour of Enrico Persevalli.'

This is the leader, the actor-manager. What should he choose for his

great occasion, this broad, thick-set, ruddy descendant of the peasant

proprietors of the plain? No one knew. The title of the play was

not revealed.

So we were staying at home, it was cold and wet. But the maestra came

inflammably on that Thursday evening, and were we not going to the

theatre, to see _Amleto_?

Poor maestra, she is yellow and bitter-skinned, near fifty, but her dark

eyes are still corrosively inflammable. She was engaged to a lieutenant

in the cavalry, who got drowned when she was twenty-one. Since then she

has hung on the tree unripe, growing yellow and bitter-skinned, never

developing.

'_Amleto!_' I say. '_Non lo conosco._'

A certain fear comes into her eyes. She is schoolmistress, and has a

mortal dread of being wrong.

'_Si_,' she cries, wavering, appealing, '_una dramma inglese_.'

'English!' I repeated.

'Yes, an English drama.'

'How do you write it?'

Anxiously, she gets a pencil from her reticule, and, with black-gloved

scrupulousness, writes _Amleto_.

'_Hamlet_!' I exclaim wonderingly.

'_Ecco, Amleto!_' cries the maestra, her eyes aflame with thankful

justification.

Then I knew that Signore Enrico Persevalli was looking to me for an

audience. His Evening of Honour would be a bitter occasion to him if the

English were not there to see his performance.

I hurried to get ready, I ran through the rain. I knew he would take it

badly that it rained on his Evening of Honour. He counted himself a man

who had fate against him.

'_Sono un disgraziato, io._'

I was late. The First Act was nearly over. The play was not yet alive,

neither in the bosoms of the actors nor in the audience. I closed the

door of the box softly, and came forward. The rolling Italian eyes of

Hamlet glanced up at me. There came a new impulse over the Court

of Denmark.

Enrico looked a sad fool in his melancholy black. The doublet sat close,

making him stout and vulgar, the knee-breeches seemed to exaggerate the

commonness of his thick, rather short, strutting legs. And he carried a

long black rag, as a cloak, for histrionic purposes. And he had on his

face a portentous grimace of melancholy and philosophic importance. His

was the caricature of Hamlet's melancholy self-absorption.

I stooped to arrange my footstool and compose my countenance. I was

trying not to grin. For the first time, attired in philosophic

melancholy of black silk, Enrico looked a boor and a fool. His

close-cropped, rather animal head was common above the effeminate

doublet, his sturdy, ordinary figure looked absurd in a

melancholic droop.

All the actors alike were out of their element. Their Majesties of

Denmark were touching. The Queen, burly little peasant woman, was ill at

ease in her pink satin. Enrico had had no mercy. He knew she loved to be

the scolding servant or housekeeper, with her head tied up in a

handkerchief, shrill and vulgar. Yet here she was pranked out in an

expanse of satin, la Regina. Regina, indeed!

She obediently did her best to be important. Indeed, she rather fancied

herself; she looked sideways at the audience, self-consciously, quite

ready to be accepted as an imposing and noble person, if they would

esteem her such. Her voice sounded hoarse and common, but whether it was

the pink satin in contrast, or a cold, I do not know. She was almost

childishly afraid to move. Before she began a speech she looked down and

kicked her skirt viciously, so that she was sure it was under control.

Then she let go. She was a burly, downright little body of sixty, one

rather expected her to box Hamlet on the ears.

Only she liked being a queen when she sat on the throne. There she

perched with great satisfaction, her train splendidly displayed down the

steps. She was as proud as a child, and she looked like Queen Victoria

of the Jubilee period.

The King, her noble consort, also had new honours thrust upon him, as

well as new garments. His body was real enough but it had nothing at all

to do with his clothes. They established a separate identity by

themselves. But wherever he went, they went with him, to the confusion

of everybody.

He was a thin, rather frail-looking peasant, pathetic, and very gentle.

There was something pure and fine about him, he was so exceedingly

gentle and by natural breeding courteous. But he did not feel kingly, he

acted the part with beautiful, simple resignation.

Enrico Persevalli had overshot himself in every direction, but worst of

all in his own. He had become a hulking fellow, crawling about with his

head ducked between his shoulders, pecking and poking, creeping about

after other people, sniffing at them, setting traps for them, absorbed

by his own self-important self-consciousness. His legs, in their black

knee-breeches, had a crawling, slinking look; he always carried the

black rag of a cloak, something for him to twist about as he twisted in

his own soul, overwhelmed by a sort of inverted perversity.

I had always felt an aversion from Hamlet: a creeping, unclean thing he

seems, on the stage, whether he is Forbes Robertson or anybody else. His

nasty poking and sniffing at his mother, his setting traps for the King,

his conceited perversion with Ophelia make him always intolerable. The

character is repulsive in its conception, based on self-dislike and a

spirit of disintegration.

There is, I think, this strain of cold dislike, or self-dislike, through

much of the Renaissance art, and through all the later Shakespeare. In

Shakespeare it is a kind of corruption in the flesh and a conscious

revolt from this. A sense of corruption in the flesh makes Hamlet

frenzied, for he will never admit that it is his own flesh. Leonardo da

Vinci is the same, but Leonardo loves the corruption maliciously.

Michelangelo rejects any feeling of corruption, he stands by the flesh,

the flesh only. It is the corresponding reaction, but in the opposite

direction. But that is all four hundred years ago. Enrico Persevalli has

just reached the position. He _is_ Hamlet, and evidently he has great

satisfaction in the part. He is the modern Italian, suspicious,

isolated, self-nauseated, labouring in a sense of physical corruption.

But he will not admit it is in himself. He creeps about in self-conceit,

transforming his own self-loathing. With what satisfaction did he reveal

corruption--corruption in his neighbours he gloated in--letting his

mother know he had discovered her incest, her uncleanness, gloated in

torturing the incestuous King. Of all the unclean ones, Hamlet was the

uncleanest. But he accused only the others.

Except in the 'great' speeches, and there Enrico was betrayed, Hamlet

suffered the extremity of physical self-loathing, loathing of his own

flesh. The play is the statement of the most significant philosophic

position of the Renaissance. Hamlet is far more even than Orestes, his

prototype, a mental creature, anti-physical, anti-sensual. The whole

drama is the tragedy of the convulsed reaction of the mind from the

flesh, of the spirit from the self, the reaction from the great

aristocratic to the great democratic principle.

An ordinary instinctive man, in Hamlet's position, would either have set

about murdering his uncle, by reflex action, or else would have gone

right away. There would have been no need for Hamlet to murder his

mother. It would have been sufficient blood-vengeance if he had killed

his uncle. But that is the statement according to the aristocratic

principle.

Orestes was in the same position, but the same position two thousand

years earlier, with two thousand years of experience wanting. So that

the question was not so intricate in him as in Hamlet, he was not nearly

so conscious. The whole Greek life was based on the idea of the

supremacy of the self, and the self was always male. Orestes was his

father's child, he would be the same whatever mother he had. The mother

was but the vehicle, the soil in which the paternal seed was planted.

When Clytemnestra murdered Agamemnon, it was as if a common individual

murdered God, to the Greek.

But Agamemnon, King and Lord, was not infallible. He was fallible. He

had sacrificed Iphigenia for the sake of glory in war, for the

fulfilment of the superb idea of self, but on the other hand he had made

cruel dissension for the sake of the concubines captured in war. The

paternal flesh was fallible, ungodlike. It lusted after meaner pursuits

than glory, war, and slaying, it was not faithful to the highest idea of

the self. Orestes was driven mad by the furies of his mother, because of

the justice that they represented. Nevertheless he was in the end

exculpated. The third play of the trilogy is almost foolish, with its

prating gods. But it means that, according to the Greek conviction,

Orestes was right and Clytemnestra entirely wrong. But for all that, the

infallible King, the infallible male Self, is dead in Orestes, killed by

the furies of Clytemnestra. He gains his peace of mind after the

revulsion from his own physical fallibility, but he will never be an

unquestioned lord, as Agamemnon was. Orestes is left at peace,

neutralized. He is the beginning of non-aristocratic Christianity.

Hamlet's father, the King, is, like Agamemnon, a warrior-king. But,

unlike Agamemnon, he is blameless with regard to Gertrude. Yet Gertrude,

like Clytemnestra, is the potential murderer of her husband, as Lady

Macbeth is murderess, as the daughters of Lear. The women murder the

supreme male, the ideal Self, the King and Father.

This is the tragic position Shakespeare must dwell upon. The woman

rejects, repudiates the ideal Self which the male represents to her. The

supreme representative, King and Father, is murdered by the Wife and the

Daughters.

What is the reason? Hamlet goes mad in a revulsion of rage and nausea.

Yet the women-murderers only represent some ultimate judgement in his

own soul. At the bottom of his own soul Hamlet has decided that the Self

in its supremacy, Father and King, must die. It is a suicidal decision

for his involuntary soul to have arrived at. Yet it is inevitable. The

great religious, philosophic tide, which has been swelling all through

the Middle Ages, had brought him there.

The question, to be or not to be, which Hamlet puts himself, does not

mean, to live or not to live. It is not the simple human being who puts

himself the question, it is the supreme I, King and Father. To be or not

to be King, Father, in the Self supreme? And the decision is, not to be.

It is the inevitable philosophic conclusion of all the Renaissance. The

deepest impulse in man, the religious impulse, is the desire to be

immortal, or infinite, consummated. And this impulse is satisfied in

fulfilment of an idea, a steady progression. In this progression man is

satisfied, he seems to have reached his goal, this infinity, this

immortality, this eternal being, with every step nearer which he takes.

And so, according to his idea of fulfilment, man establishes the whole

order of life. If my fulfilment is the fulfilment and establishment of

the unknown divine Self which I am, then I shall proceed in the

realizing of the greatest idea of the self, the highest conception of

the I, my order of life will be kingly, imperial, aristocratic. The body

politic also will culminate in this divinity of the flesh, this body

imbued with glory, invested with divine power and might, the King, the

Emperor. In the body politic also I shall desire a king, an emperor, a

tyrant, glorious, mighty, in whom I see myself consummated and

fulfilled. This is inevitable!

But during the Middle Ages, struggling within this pagan, original

transport, the transport of the Ego, was a small dissatisfaction, a

small contrary desire. Amid the pomp of kings and popes was the Child

Jesus and the Madonna. Jesus the King gradually dwindled down. There was

Jesus the Child, helpless, at the mercy of all the world. And there was

Jesus crucified.

The old transport, the old fulfilment of the Ego, the Davidian ecstasy,

the assuming of all power and glory unto the self, the becoming infinite

through the absorption of all into the Ego, this gradually became

unsatisfactory. This was not the infinite, this was not immortality.

This was eternal death, this was damnation.

The monk rose up with his opposite ecstasy, the Christian ecstasy. There

was a death to die: the flesh, the self, must die, so that the spirit

should rise again immortal, eternal, infinite. I am dead unto myself,

but I live in the Infinite. The finite Me is no more, only the Infinite,

the Eternal, is.

At the Renaissance this great half-truth overcame the other great

half-truth. The Christian Infinite, reached by a process of abnegation,

a process of being absorbed, dissolved, diffused into the great

Not-Self, supplanted the old pagan Infinite, wherein the self like a

root threw out branches and radicles which embraced the whole universe,

became the Whole.

There is only one Infinite, the world now cried, there is the great

Christian Infinite of renunciation and consummation in the not-self. The

other, that old pride, is damnation. The sin of sins is Pride, it is the

way to total damnation. Whereas the pagans based their life on pride.

And according to this new Infinite, reached through renunciation and

dissolving into the Others, the Neighbour, man must build up his actual

form of life. With Savonarola and Martin Luther the living Church

actually transformed itself, for the Roman Church was still pagan. Henry

VIII simply said: 'There is no Church, there is only the State.' But

with Shakespeare the transformation had reached the State also. The

King, the Father, the representative of the Consummate Self, the maximum

of all life, the symbol of the consummate being, the becoming Supreme,

Godlike, Infinite, he must perish and pass away. This Infinite was not

infinite, this consummation was not consummated, all this was fallible,

false. It was rotten, corrupt. It must go. But Shakespeare was also the

thing itself. Hence his horror, his frenzy, his self-loathing.

The King, the Emperor is killed in the soul of man, the old order of

life is over, the old tree is dead at the root. So said Shakespeare. It

was finally enacted in Cromwell. Charles I took up the old position of

kingship by divine right. Like Hamlet's father, he was blameless

otherwise. But as representative of the old form of life, which mankind

now hated with frenzy, he must be cut down, removed. It was a

symbolic act.

The world, our world of Europe, had now really turned, swung round to a

new goal, a new idea, the Infinite reached through the omission of Self.

God is all that which is Not-Me. I am consummate when my Self, the

resistant solid, is reduced and diffused into all that which is Not-Me:

my neighbour, my enemy, the great Otherness. Then I am perfect.

And from this belief the world began gradually to form a new State, a

new body politic, in which the Self should be removed. There should be

no king, no lords, no aristocrats. The world continued in its religious

belief, beyond the French Revolution, beyond the great movement of

Shelley and Godwin. There should be no Self. That which was supreme was

that which was Not-Me, the other. The governing factor in the State was

the idea of the good of others; that is, the Common Good. And the

_vital_ governing idea in the State has been this idea since Cromwell.

Before Cromwell the idea was 'For the King', because every man saw

himself consummated in the King. After Cromwell the idea was 'For the

good of my neighbour', or 'For the good of the people', or 'For the good

of the whole'. This has been our ruling idea, by which we have more or

less lived.

Now this has failed. Now we say that the Christian Infinite is not

infinite. We are tempted, like Nietzsche, to return back to the old

pagan Infinite, to say that is supreme. Or we are inclined, like the

English and the Pragmatist, to say, 'There is no Infinite, there is no

Absolute. The only Absolute is expediency, the only reality is sensation

and momentariness.' But we may say this, even act on it, _à la Sanine_.

But we never believe it.

What is really Absolute is the mystic Reason which connects both

Infinites, the Holy Ghost that relates both natures of God. If we now

wish to make a living State, we must build it up to the idea of the Holy

Spirit, the supreme Relationship. We must say, the pagan Infinite is

infinite, the Christian Infinite is infinite: these are our two

Consummations, in both of these we are consummated. But that which

relates them alone is absolute.

This Absolute of the Holy Ghost we may call Truth or Justice or Right.

These are partial names, indefinite and unsatisfactory unless there be

kept the knowledge of the two Infinites, pagan and Christian, which they

go between. When both are there, they are like a superb bridge, on which

one can stand and know the whole world, my world, the two halves of

the universe.

'_Essere, o non essere, è qui il punto._'

To be or not to be was the question for Hamlet to settle. It is no

longer our question, at least, not in the same sense. When it is a

question of death, the fashionable young suicide declares that his

self-destruction is the final proof of his own incontrovertible being.

And as for not-being in our public life, we have achieved it as much as

ever we want to, as much as is necessary. Whilst in private life there

is a swing back to paltry selfishness as a creed. And in the war there

is the position of neutralization and nothingness. It is a question of

knowing how _to be_, and how _not to be_, for we must fulfil both.

Enrico Persevalli was detestable with his '_Essere, o non essere_'. He

whispered it in a hoarse whisper as if it were some melodramatic murder

he was about to commit. As a matter of fact, he knows quite well, and

has known all his life, that his pagan Infinite, his transport of the

flesh and the supremacy of the male in fatherhood, is all

unsatisfactory. All his life he has really cringed before the northern

Infinite of the Not-Self, although he has continued in the Italian habit

of Self. But it is mere habit, sham.

How can he know anything about being and not-being when he is only a

maudlin compromise between them, and all he wants is to be a maudlin

compromise? He is neither one nor the other. He has neither being nor

riot-being. He is as equivocal as the monks. He was detestable, mouthing

Hamlet's sincere words. He has still to let go, to know what not-being

is, before he can _be_. Till he has gone through the Christian negation

of himself, and has known the Christian consummation, he is a mere

amorphous heap.

For the soliloquies of Hamlet are as deep as the soul of man can go, in

one direction, and as sincere as the Holy Spirit itself in their

essence. But thank heaven, the bog into which Hamlet struggled is almost

surpassed.

It is a strange thing, if a man covers his face, and speaks with his

eyes blinded, how significant and poignant he becomes. The ghost of this

Hamlet was very simple. He was wrapped down to the knees in a great

white cloth, and over his face was an open-work woollen shawl. But the

naïve blind helplessness and verity of his voice was strangely

convincing. He seemed the most real thing in the play. From the knees

downward he was Laertes, because he had on Laertes' white trousers and

patent leather slippers. Yet he was strangely real, a voice out of

the dark.

The Ghost is really one of the play's failures, it is so trivial and

unspiritual and vulgar. And it was spoilt for me from the first. When I

was a child I went to the twopenny travelling theatre to see _Hamlet_.

The Ghost had on a helmet and a breastplate. I sat in pale transport.

''Amblet, 'Amblet, I _am_ thy father's ghost.'

Then came a voice from the dark, silent audience, like a cynical knife

to my fond soul:

'Why tha arena, I can tell thy voice.'

The peasants loved Ophelia: she was in white with her hair down her

back. Poor thing, she was pathetic, demented. And no wonder, after

Hamlet's 'O, that this too, too solid flesh would melt!' What then of

her young breasts and her womb? Hamlet with her was a very disagreeable

sight. The peasants loved her. There was a hoarse roar, half of

indignation, half of roused passion, at the end of her scene.

The graveyard scene, too, was a great success, but I could not bear

Hamlet. And the grave-digger in Italian was a mere buffoon. The whole

scene was farcical to me because of the Italian, '_Questo cranio,

Signore_--'And Enrico, dainty fellow, took the skull in a corner of his

black cloak. As an Italian, he would not willingly touch it. It was

unclean. But he looked a fool, hulking himself in his lugubriousness. He

was as self-important as D'Annunzio.

The close fell flat. The peasants had applauded the whole graveyard

scene wildly. But at the end of all they got up and crowded to the

doors, as if to hurry away: this in spite of Enrico's final feat: he

fell backwards, smack down three steps of the throne platform, on to the

stage. But planks and braced muscle will bounce, and Signer Amleto

bounced quite high again.

It was the end of _Amleto_, and I was glad. But I loved the theatre, I

loved to look down on the peasants, who were so absorbed. At the end of

the scenes the men pushed back their black hats, and rubbed their hair

across their brows with a pleased, excited movement. And the women

stirred in their seats.

Just one man was with his wife and child, and he was of the same race as

my old woman at San Tommaso. He was fair, thin, and clear, abstract, of

the mountains. He seemed to have gathered his wife and child together

into another, finer atmosphere, like the air of the mountains, and to

guard them in it. This is the real Joseph, father of the child. He has a

fierce, abstract look, wild and untamed as a hawk, but like a hawk at

its own nest, fierce with love. He goes out and buys a tiny bottle of

lemonade for a penny, and the mother and child sip it in tiny sips,

whilst he bends over, like a hawk arching its wings.

It is the fierce spirit of the Ego come out of the primal infinite, but

detached, isolated, an aristocrat. He is not an Italian, dark-blooded.

He is fair, keen as steel, with the blood of the mountaineer in him. He

is like my old spinning woman. It is curious how, with his wife and

child, he makes a little separate world down there in the theatre, like

a hawk's nest, high and arid under the gleaming sky.

The Bersaglieri sit close together in groups, so that there is a

strange, corporal connexion between them. They have close-cropped, dark,

slightly bestial heads, and thick shoulders, and thick brown hands on

each other's shoulders. When an act is over they pick up their cherished

hats and fling on their cloaks and go into the hall. They are rather

rich, the Bersaglieri.

They are like young, half-wild oxen, such strong, sturdy, dark lads,

thickly built and with strange hard heads, like young male caryatides.

They keep close together, as if there were some physical instinct

connecting them. And they are quite womanless. There is a curious

inter-absorption among themselves, a sort of physical trance that holds

them all, and puts their minds to sleep. There is a strange, hypnotic

unanimity among them as they put on their plumed hats and go out

together, always very close, as if their bodies must touch. Then they

feel safe and content in this heavy, physical trance. They are in love

with one another, the young men love the young men. They shrink from the

world beyond, from the outsiders, from all who are not Bersaglieri of

their barracks.

One man is a sort of leader. He is very straight and solid, solid like a

wall, with a dark, unblemished will. His cock-feathers slither in a

profuse, heavy stream from his black oil-cloth hat, almost to his

shoulder. He swings round. His feathers slip into a cascade. Then he

goes out to the hall, his feather tossing and falling richly. He must be

well off. The Bersaglieri buy their own black cock's-plumes, and some

pay twenty or thirty francs for the bunch, so the maestra said. The poor

ones have only poor, scraggy plumes.

There is something very primitive about these men. They remind me really

of Agamemnon's soldiers clustered oil the seashore, men, all men, a

living, vigorous, physical host of men. But there is a pressure on these

Italian soldiers, as if they were men caryatides, with a great weight on

their heads, making their brain hard, asleep, stunned. They all look is

if their real brain were stunned, as if there were another centre of

physical consciousness from which they lived.

Separate from them all is Pietro, the young man who lounges on the wharf

to carry things from the steamer. He starts up from sleep like a

wild-cat as somebody claps him on the shoulder. It is the start of a man

who has many enemies. He is almost an outlaw. Will he ever find himself

in prison? He is the _gamin_ of the village, well detested.

He is twenty-four years old, thin, dark, handsome, with a cat-like

lightness and grace, and a certain repulsive, _gamin_ evil in his face.

Where everybody is so clean and tidy, he is almost ragged. His week's

beard shows very black in his slightly hollow cheeks. He hates the man

who has waked him by clapping him on the shoulder.

Pietro is already married, yet he behaves as if he were not. He has been

carrying on with a loose woman, the wife of the citron-coloured barber,

the Siciliano. Then he seats himself on the women's side of the theatre,

behind a young person from Bogliaco, who also has no reputation, and

makes her talk to him. He leans forward, resting his arms on the seat

before him, stretching his slender, cat-like, flexible loins. The

padrona of the hotel hates him--'_ein frecher Kerl_,' she says with

contempt, and she looks away. Her eyes hate to see him.

In the village there is the clerical party, which is the majority;

there is the anti-clerical party, and there are the ne'er-do-wells. The

clerical people are dark and pious and cold; there is a curious

stone-cold, ponderous darkness over them, moral and gloomy. Then the

anti-clerical party, with the Syndaco at the head, is bourgeois and

respectable as far as the middle-aged people are concerned, banal,

respectable, shut off as by a wall from the clerical people. The young

anti-clericals are the young bloods of the place, the men who gather

every night in the more expensive and less-respectable cafe. These young

men are all free-thinkers, great dancers, singers, players of the

guitar. They are immoral and slightly cynical. Their leader is the young

shopkeeper, who has lived in Vienna, who is a bit of a bounder, with a

veneer of sneering irony on an original good nature. He is well-to-do,

and gives dances to which only the looser women go, with these reckless

young men. He also gets up parties of pleasure, and is chiefly

responsible for the coming of the players to the theatre this carnival.

These young men are disliked, but they belong to the important class,

they are well-to-do, and they have the life of the village in their

hands. The clerical peasants are priest-ridden and good, because they

are poor and afraid and superstitious. There is, lastly, a sprinkling of

loose women, one who keeps the inn where the soldiers drink. These women

are a definite set. They know what they are, they pretend nothing else.

They are not prostitutes, but just loose women. They keep to their own

clique, among men and women, never wanting to compromise anybody else.

And beyond all these there are the Franciscan friars in their brown

robes, so shy, so silent, so obliterated, as they stand back in the

shop, waiting to buy the bread for the monastery, waiting obscure and

neutral, till no one shall be in the shop wanting to be served. The

village women speak to them in a curious neutral, official, slightly

contemptuous voice. They answer neutral and humble, though distinctly.

At the theatre, now the play is over, the peasants in their black hats

and cloaks crowd the hall. Only Pietro, the wharf-lounger, has no cloak,

and a bit of a cap on the side of his head instead of a black felt hat.

His clothes are thin and loose on his thin, vigorous, cat-like body, and

he is cold, but he takes no notice. His hands are always in his pockets,

his shoulders slightly raised.

The few women slip away home. In the little theatre bar the well-to-do

young atheists are having another drink. Not that they spend much. A

tumbler of wine or a glass of vermouth costs a penny. And the wine is

horrible new stuff. Yet the little baker, Agostino, sits on a bench with

his pale baby on his knee, putting the wine to its lips. And the baby

drinks, like a blind fledgeling.

Upstairs, the quality has paid its visits and shaken hands: the Syndaco

and the well-to-do half-Austrian owners of the woodyard, the Bertolini,

have ostentatiously shown their mutual friendship; our padrone, the

Signer Pietro Di Paoli, has visited his relatives the Graziani in the

box next the stage and has spent two intervals with us in our box;

meanwhile, his two peasants standing down below, pathetic, thin

contadini of the old school, like worn stones, have looked up at us as

if we are the angels in heaven, with a reverential, devotional eye, they

themselves far away below, standing in the bay at the back, below all.

The chemist and the grocer and the schoolmistress pay calls. They have

all sat self-consciously posed in the front of their boxes, like framed

photographs of themselves. The second grocer and the baker visit each

other. The barber looks in on the carpenter, then drops downstairs among

the crowd. Class distinctions are cut very fine. As we pass with the

padrona of the hotel, who is a Bavarian, we stop to speak to our own

padroni, the Di Paoli. They have a warm handshake and effusive polite

conversation for us; for Maria Samuelli, a distant bow. We realize

our mistake.

The barber--not the Siciliano, but flashy little Luigi with the big

tie-ring and the curls--knows all about the theatre. He says that Enrico

Persevalli has for his mistress Carina, the servant in _Ghosts_: that

the thin, gentle, old-looking king in _Hamlet_ is the husband of

Adelaida, and Carina is their daughter: that the old, sharp, fat little

body of a queen is Adelaida's mother: that they all like Enrico

Persevalli, because he is a very clever man: but that the 'Comic', Il

Brillante, Francesco, is unsatisfied.

In three performances in Epiphany week, the company took two hundred and

sixty-five francs, which was phenomenal. The manager, Enrico Persevalli,

and Adelaida pay twenty-four francs for every performance, or every

evening on which a performance is given, as rent for the theatre,

including light. The company is completely satisfied with its reception

on the Lago di Garda.

So it is all over. The Bersaglieri go running all the way home, because

it is already past half past ten. The night is very dark. About four

miles up the lake the searchlights of the Austrian border are swinging,

looking for smugglers. Otherwise the darkness is complete.

_4_

Twilight in Italy · 第 11 / 20 题