IN THE POSSESSION OF THE FRENCH GOVERNMENT]

About twenty-five years ago, the Grand Duke Vladimir of Russia, making

a journey into the northern part of the Empire, chanced to visit the

lonely Solovetski Monastery on the shores of the White Sea. Among the

sacred painters of this monastery he found a young peasant who had

been sent there by his parents as a boy of fifteen. Duke Vladimir,

struck with his talent, shipped him off to St. Petersburg to study in

the Imperial Academy of Fine Arts. The young Russian peasant was

Alexander Borissoff, the adventurous painter whose work in the last

few years has made the wonderful color scheme of the Arctic Circle for

the first time accessible to the eyes of the world.

His early years on the edge of the Arctic fired the imagination of the

youth, and directed the course of his whole future life. While he was

still a student he made a trip to England. "There," he says, "an idea

that had long been shaping itself in my brain took hold of me. The

polar regions fascinated me. My forefathers, I knew, hunted bears at

Spitzbergen; and as a boy I had heard all about the Arctic. I wanted

to see and paint that wonderful country. Travelers would write that

the Arctic nights were magnificent; but I wanted to give the colors

and lights themselves."

_Borissoff Becomes a Samoyed_

Borissoff shipped on a Russian boat from Newcastle for the Murman

Coast--Russian territory adjoining Norway--and from there sailed to

Nova Zembla. On the frozen island of the Arctic Sea, living among the

wandering Samoyed tribes, he began to paint under such conditions as

certainly no artist has ever painted before. It was the make-shift

expedition of a buoyantly adventurous and rough-bred young artist,

better furnished with canvases and brushes than with clothing,

instruments, and stores. He practically became a Samoyed; he adapted

himself to the tribal laws with good-natured tact, helping out the

native commissariat by shooting white partridges, wild geese, and

Arctic bear. He studied reindeer breeding; he took native baths in

steam-tents and ice-water; he attended weddings, funerals, and pagan

rites. Wherever the tribe traveled, he followed; and everywhere he

painted.

The movements of the Samoyed depend largely on the habits of the

reindeer. "In autumn the reindeer seeks the wooded zone," says

Borissoff. "He cannot stand the tremendous snowstorms that whirl in

the tundra; and he must live on lichen from the trunks and boughs of

fir-trees, or feed on the shoots of birch and willows, when the frozen

soil prevents him from browsing moss under the snow. But no sooner

does he sniff the polar spring, than he longs irresistibly to gallop

to the north to the open air of the Arctic, where there are no

tiresome gnats, no intolerable wasps to lay their larvae in his skin

and cause him torment."

The Samoyed keeps in this migrating animal's wake; and it was in one

of these migrations north that Borissoff first saw what he calls the

Realms of Death.

_Painting in a Temperature of 30 deg. Below Zero_

"The curious thing was that I found all as I had imagined it," he

says. "The knowledge of the icebergs and the snow seemed to have been

born in me. Vast stretches of glaciers with their yawning chasms of

death, icebergs mountain-high--I greeted them as old friends. Living

on native rations and enduring the most bitter cold, I made

landscapes--or rather, icescapes--in the open, with a temperature of

30 degrees below zero.

"Sometimes it was impossible to paint. Even the turpentine froze. The

paint congealed in lumps, whilst the hairs of the brushes snapped off

like brittle glass. I had to put on fur gloves to hold a brush, and

work with swift, energetic strokes--as the rough appearance of some of

my paintings bears evidence."

All of Borissoff's paintings were done in the ice zone beyond the 70th

parallel of north latitude, in the district between Archangel and the

Yalmal Peninsula. He never tires of telling of the peculiar

color-tones of this region, and the curious psychological effects of

its distance, silence, and isolation. Living amid its singular light

phenomena, where the spring-time snow turns pink against blue

icebergs, and the boggy midsummer tundra swims in a sea of orange-red

against a sky of aquamarine, even the Samoyed becomes a color

worshiper.

"Why does that man sit in a scarlet cloak on rose-colored snow against

a solid background of dark blue?" I asked, examining one of

Borissoff's paintings.

"The deep blue is an iceberg," he laughed. "Yes, and the snow is

really that color--by reflection. The man is a Samoyed who

bartered everything he owned--reindeer, walrus, ivory, dogs, and

sledges--to an adventurous dealer from the nearest settlements for

a robe of scarlet woolen stuff. Then, in his scarlet cloak, he

wandered about in the sunlight for ten days, in an ecstatic trance,

silent, good-for-nothing, living on his family, drunk with the glory

of that scarlet garment!"

_Traveling With a Woman Scout_

The man was Danillo, the brother-in-law of Ireena, a woman scout of

whom Borissoff speaks frequently in his reminiscences, and whose

wonderful gift of "seeing" by atmospheric signs the country beyond the

horizon and divining where the trails lay gave her a position of

peculiar dignity among her tribesfolk. This woman was their sole and

undisputed guide through the monotonous flat wastes of snow. Among the

last of the pagans of Europe woman's place is certainly higher than it

is supposed to have been before the dawn of Christianity. A woman like

Ireena may hold the tribal-family together; revive courage in dire

surroundings; decide momentous debates as to reindeer-speculation;

practise medicine and surgery; withstand the redoubtable devils of

blizzard and thaw; serve the bad Siadey in his bloody sanctuary; and

even dare the unmentionable good god's isolating stretches of white

cold, to serve an inquisitive painter from the South.

It was Ireena and Danillo who took Borissoff to the last pagan shrines

of Europe, never visited before by a European.

"In the background," says Borissoff, "one sees mountains of floating

icebergs of tremendous dimensions, prevented from approaching the

coast by submarine reefs. Here, on the edge of the Arctic, are the

cliffs containing the Holy Place, reached only after a terrible

journey over icy rocks and fearful ravines, through riverbeds stuffed

with snow, up snowy slopes in intricate zig-zags, where the reindeer

floundered and protested."

_Borissoff's Pilgrimage to the Last Pagan Shrines of Europe_

[Illustration: "THE COUNTRY OF THE DEAD"--A STUDY OF THE KARA SEA IN

AUGUST]

Three versts' distance from the shrine, they stopped on the threshold

of the Samoyed Mecca. Borissoff stumbled over huge mounds of idols

heaped between cliffs, one of them so great that forty sledges could

not have removed the idols. He passed mountains of deer-skulls,

antlers, and skulls of polar bears; and heaps of rusty axes, knives,

chains, fragments of anchors, harpoons, and parts of rifles brought as

offerings over weary leagues. The Samoyeds often drive here from a

thousand miles away, stop at the threshold of this dwelling-place of

the supreme Idol-God of the polar regions, and, killing a domestic

deer as the least sacrifice, besprinkle the shrine with its blood.

[Illustration: "SAMOYED LOVE OF COLOR"

McClure's Magazine, Vol. XXXI, No. 4, August 1908 · 第 37 / 75 题